Varanasi - info on Varanasi

Uttar Pradesh • India
Coordinates: 25°19′60″N 83°00′00″E / 25.3333, 83
Time zone IST (UTC+5:30)
Area
• Elevation 1,550 km² (598 sq mi)
• 80.71 m (265 ft)
District(s) Varanasi
Population
• Density 3,147,927[1] (2001)
• 1,995/km² (5,167/sq mi)[2]
Mayor kaushalendra singh
Codes
• Pincode
• Telephone
• Vehicle
• 221 001
• +0542
• UP-65

Vārāṇasī (pronunciation (help·info), Hindi: वाराणसी, Urdu: وارانسی, IPA: [βɑrɑɳɐsiː]), also known as Benares, Banaras, or Benaras (pronunciation (info), Hindi: बनारस, Urdu: بنارس Banāras, IPA: [bɐnɑrɐs]), or Kashi or Kasi (pronunciation (info), Hindi: काशी, Urdu: کاشی Kāśī), is a famous Hindu holy city situated on the banks of the river Ganges (Ganga) in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, dating back thousands of years and contemporaneous with the Sumer civilisation.[3] The city is called Kashi, "the luminous" in the Rigveda.[4] It is often also referred to as "city of temples and learning."[5]

The culture of Varanasi is deeply associated with the river Ganges and the river's religious importance. The city has been a cultural and religious center in northern India for thousands of years. Varanasi has its own style of classical Hindustani music, and has produced prominent philosophers, poets, writers and musicians in Indian history, including Kabir, Ravi Das, Munshi Premchand, Jaishankar Prasad, Acharya Ram Chandra Shukla, Pandit Ravi Shankar, Hariprasad Chaurasia and Ustad Bismillah Khan. Varanasi is the home of Banaras Hindu University. Tulsidas wrote his Ramcharitmanas here, and Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath near Kashi. The language spoken in Varanasi is Kashika Bhojpuri related to Hindi.

Geography
The city of Varanasi is located in the middle Ganga valley of North India, in the Eastern part of the state of Uttar Pradesh, along the left crescent-shaped bank of the Ganga river. The Varanasi City is the district headquarters of the Varanasi district. The "Varanasi Urban Agglomeration" — an agglomeration of seven urban sub-units — covers an area of 112.26 km² (approximately 43 mi²).[6] The urban agglomeration is stretched between 82° 56’E - 83° 03’E and 25° 14’N - 25° 23.5’N.[6] Being located in broad plain of North India, (also called as Gangetic plains), the land can be very much called as plain. Due to yearly low level floods in river, the soil is repeatedly replenished and hence is very productive for agriculture for most of the city.

On a local level though, Varanasi is located on a higher ground between rivers Ganga and Varuna, the mean elevation being 80.71 m.[7] The main land is relatively stony, which with the absence of small distributaries and canals, provides a continuous and relatively dry land, which was perfect for settling down in the ancient times.

It is often difficult to suggest the original geography of Varanasi, due to conflicts between descriptions provided in old texts and city's current status. It is often said that Varanasi is situated between the two confluences: one of Ganga and Varuna and other of Ganga and river Assi. The statement gets its weight from the fact that the distance between these two confluences is around 2.5 miles, and a round trip to between these two places is considered holy by Hindus, and is called Pancha-kroshi Yatra (the five mile journey). At the end of this journey, Sakshi Vinayak Temple is located where devotees go on to complete the circle.

On the contrary, though Varuna and Ganga do exist as rivers, Assi also exists but only as a nullah. Also, there is no evidence that Assi was ever a big river.

Climate

Varanasi has a humid subtropical climate with high variation between summer and winter temperatures. Summers are long, from early April till October, with the monsoon season in between. Cold waves from the Himalayan region dip temperatures across the city in the winter from December to February. The average temperature is 32°C–46 °C (90°F–115 °F) in the summer; 5 °C–15 °C (41 °F–59 °F) in the winter.[7] The average annual rainfall is 1110 mm (44 in).[8]. Fog is common in winter while hot dry winds called loo blow in summer. The city is relatively free from the air pollution.[citation needed] Recently due to water pollution, making of dams, and increase in temperature due to climate change etc., the water level of the river has gone down significantly and small portions of land can be seen in the middle of the river.

People and culture

Regions near the banks of river Ganga are extremely crowded and house several Hindu temples, narrow winding lanes and road-side shops. The main residential areas of Varanasi (especially for the middle and upper classes) are situated in regions far from the ghats; they are more spacious and less polluted. Such a place in an Indian city is called a housing colony. Varanasi has nearly 100 ghats, most of which are bathing ghats, while some others are for cremation. According to Hindu belief, dying at Kasi ensures release from the eternal cycle of birth and rebirth. Many of these ghats were built when the Marathas controlled the city and the Scindias, the Peshwas, Holkars and Bhonsles stand out as patrons of present day Varanasi. Even today many of the ghats are privately owned. Shivala or Kali ghat is still owned by the former Maharaja of Kasi.

Various legends are associated with the ghats and it is believed that Dasaswamedh Ghat is where Lord Brahma sacrificed 10 horses in a yajna. Manikarnika Ghat is the place where Lord Vishnu dug a pit with his Chakra and while performing various penances filled it with perspiration. As Lord Shiva watched him, his earring (Manik) fell into the pit, hence the name. According to another legend, in order to keep Lord Shiva moving around with his devotees, Goddess Parvati asked him to find her earrings, which she hid, lost on the bank of Ganga and make Lord Shiva stay at the place and search forever. It is said that when the body is cremated at Mani Karnika Ghat Lord Shiva asks every soul whether they have seen the earring (Mani Karnika). Other interesting ghats are Man Mandir Ghat built in 1770 CE by Jai Singh of Jaipur, the intrepid astronomer who built his observatories here, Mansarover Ghat built by Man Singh of Amber. Bachraj is used by Jain devotees for it has three river bank Jain temples. Tulsi Ghat is where Tulsidas wrote Ramcharitmanas. Lalita Ghat was built by late King of Nepal.

Holy city

Varanasi is a holy city in Hinduism, one of the most sacred pilgrimage places for Hindus of all denomination. The Hindu God Shiva supposedly once lived there making many Hindus want to go there on a pilgrimage. More than 1,000,000 pilgrims visit the city each year. Here is the holy shrine of Lord Kashi Vishwanath, (an aspect of Lord Shiva) and one of the twelve revered Jyotirlingas of the Lord Shiva. Hindus believe that bathing in the river Ganga will remit sins and that dying in the holy city of Kashi (Varanasi) circumvents rebirth. This holy city is worshipped as one of the Shakti Peethas where Divine Mother Sati's earring fell and so devotees believe that on that spot stands the present Vishalakshi Temple.[9]and hindus of the shakti sect come to the city because the river it self is said to be shakti (goddess) its self It is here that Adi Shankara wrote his commentaries on Hinduism, leading to the great Hindu revival.

It is not just the Hindus venerate Varanasi today, for the city has links with Buddhism and Jainism as well. In the residential neighbourhood of the city lies Sarnath, the site of the deer park where Gautama Buddha is said to have given his first sermon about the basic principles of Buddhism. It is one of the four pilgrimage sites designated by Gautama Buddha, the other three being Kushinagar, Bodh Gaya, and Lumbini. The Dhamek Stupa is one of the few pre-Ashokan stupas remaining, although only the foundations remain. Also remaining is the Chaukhandi Stupa commemorating the spot where the Buddha met his first deciples, dating back to the fifth century or earlier amd later enhanced by the addition of an octagonal tower.

Varanasi is also a pilgrimage place for Jains. It is believed to be the birthplace of Parshvanatha, the twenty-third Tirthankar. Vaishnavism and Shaivism have co-existed in Varanasi harmoniously. The city has also been influenced by Islamic culture.

This explains the continuous tension between communities in the city and the fact that really ancient monuments are few. However, Varanasi has kept its sacred position as the Holy City of Hinduism.

Temples

Varanasi is a city of temples. Almost every road crossing has a nearby temple. Such small temples form the basis of daily local prayers and other rituals. But there are many large temples too, erected at different times through out the history of Varanasi.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple, also called Golden Temple, which in its present shape was built in 1780 by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore, is located on the outskirts of the Ganga. This temple makes Varanasi a place of great religious importance to the Hindus, as Vishweshwara or Vishwanatha, the aforementioned Jyotirlinga of the Lord Shiva is enshrined here. It is said that a single view of Vishwanatha Jyotirlinga is considered to merit more than that of other jyotirlingas. A Naubatkhana was built up in front of the Temple by the collector Mohammed Ibrahim Khan at the instance of Governor General Warren Hastings in 1785. In 1839, Punjab Kesari, the Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the ruler of Punjab donated gold to cover the two domes of the temple. On January 28, 1983 the Temple was taken over by the government of Uttar Pradesh and its management was transferred to a trust with Late Dr. Vibhuti Narayan Singh, then Kashi Naresh, as president and an executive committee with Divisional Commissioner as chairman.[10]. The official website of the Shri Kashi Vishwanath temple[Kashi Vishwanath] was launched on 23rd Jul 2007 and gives details about temple activities as well as facilities for online booking of various sevas and pujas.

The temple was once destroyed by Aurangzeb who built a mosque on it. It was later resurrected at a location near the mosque, and is many times a cause of local strain among Hindus and Muslims.[11]

Durga Temple, also called Monkey temple, was built at some point of time in 18th century by a Bengali Maharani. The temple got its name as 'Monkey temple' because of the presence of large number of monkeys in the temple. According to legends, the present statue of Goddess Durga was not made by man but appeared on its own in the temple. Thousands of Hindu devotees visit the Durga temple during Navratri and other auspicious occasions. Non-Hindus can enter the courtyard of the Durga temple but not the inner sanctum.

The architecture is of Nagara Style, which is typical of North India. The temple is accompanied by a rectangular tank of water called Durga Kund. The temple has multi-tiered spires and is stained red with ochre, signifying the red colour of Durga. The Kund was earlier connected to the river itself thus refreshing the water. This tunnel was later closed, leading to locked water which is replenished only by rain or drainage from the Temple. Every year on the occasion of Nag panchami, the act of depicting Lord Vishnu reclining on the coiled-up Shesha is repeated in the Kund.

Sankat Mochan Temple is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is very popular with the local citizens. It is a place for many yearly religious as well as cultural festivals.On 7 March 2006, one of the three explosions carried out by Islamic militants hit the temple, while the aarti, in which numerous worshippers and wedding attendees participated,was in progress.

The new Vishwanath Temple, called Birla Mandir, mainly funded by Raja Birla of the Birla family of industrialists, was built as a replica of the old Kashi Vishwanath Temple.[12] Planned by Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya, the temple is part of the Banaras Hindu University, and stands for national revival. The temple is open to people of all castes and religions. Kadar Temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva. this is very popular because it is called svyambu Ling of Shiva .it is near Harischandra Ghat.it has two part one Shiva and seacond is Parvati.some pandit says one is visnu(Hari) seacond part is Shive(Har).

Art

A holy city, Varanasi does not take a backseat when it comes to fine arts and literature. Great Indian writers have lived in this city from Kabir, Ravi Das, and Tulsidas to Bharatendu Harishchandra, Jayshankar Prasad, Acharya Ram Chandra Shukla, Munshi Prem Chand, Jagannath Prasad Ratnakar, Devaki Nandan Khatri, Hazari Prasad Dwivedi, Tegh Ali, Kshetresa Chandra Chattopadhyaya, Vagish Shastri, Baldev Upadhyaya, Vidya Niwas Mishra, Kashi Nath Singh, Namvar Singh, Rudra Kashikeya, Nirgun among many other notables.

Art lovers and historians like Rai Krishnadas, his son Prof. Anand Krishna, musicians like Pt. Omkarnath Thakur,P t. Ravi Shankar, Ustad Bismillah Khan, Girija Devi, Siddheshwari Devi, Dr. Lalmani Misra and his son Dr. Gopal Shankar Misra, Dr. N. Rajam, Dr.Rajbhan Singh, Pt. Anokhelal, Pt. Samta Prasad, Kanthe Maharaj, Pt. M. V. Kalvint, Sitara Devi, Gopi Krishna, Pt. Kishan Maharaj, Rajan and Sajan, Mahadev Mishra, Girija Devi and numerous others have kept the city alive to the spiritual aspect of fine arts apart from their ability to entertain. Numerous festivals are celebrated that preserve traditional styles of classical and folk culture. All night, open music concerts like ones organised at Sankat Mochan Temple, Hori, Kajri and Chaiti Mela, Budwa Mangal, are annual features that draw connoisseurs from all over.

Economy

Varanasi has several small cottage industries, including Silk sari making, the production of textiles such as hand-woven carpets, and handicrafts. The Banarasi Pan (betel leaves) and Banarasi Khoa (a milk product, somewhat similar to cheese) are popular, and the related small-scale industries employ many people. Indian Railways runs a major diesel locomotive factory in Varanasi, Diesel Locomotive Works (DLW). According to Macaulay, Varanasi was the "city which, in wealth, population, dignity and sanctity was among the foremost in Asia". He described the commercial importance saying "from the looms of Benaras went forth the most delicate silks that adorned the halls of St. James and of Vesailles."[9][13]

Demographics

The population of Varanasi urban agglomeration in 2001 was 1,371,749; the sex ratio was 879 females every 1000 males.[14] However, the area under Varanasi Municipal Corporation has a population of 1,100,748[15] with the sex ratio being 883 females for every 1000 males.[15] The literacy rate in the urban agglomeration is 61.5% while that in the municipal corporation area is 61%.[15] Approximately 138,000 people in the municipal area live in slums.[16] The crime rate in the city in 2004 was 128.5 per 100,000 which is higher than Uttar Pradesh rate of 73.2 but lower than the national rate of 168.8.[17]

Transport

Auto Rickshaw and Rickshaw are the most widely available public transport within Varanasi. In outer regions of the city, mini-buses are common. Small boats and small steamers are used to cross the river Ganga.

Varanasi is well connected by air, rail and buses with all the important places of India. Its distance from Delhi is 776 km. The Babatpur airport is about 25 km from the city center and it is well connected to Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Kolkata, and Nepal. All the major domestic Indian carriers like Jet Airways, Kingfisher Airlines, Indian, Spicejet, and Alliance Air operate from here.

One of the major factors for sustainment of Varanasi for such a long time as an inhabited city, is its effective transport between different cities. From ancient times the city was connected to cities like Taxila, Gazipur, Pataliputra, Vaishali, Ayodhya, Gorakhpur, Agra etc.

The city was connected through a single road from Taxila going through Pataliputra during the Mauryan empire. This road was later renovated and extended by Sher Shah Suri during the 16th century and later came to be known as the famous Grand Trunk Road.

Civic administration and utility services

Varanasi is governed by a number of bodies, the prime being the Varanasi Nagar Nigam (Municipal Corporation) and Varanasi Development Authority, which is responsible for the master planning of the city. Water supply and sewage system is maintained by Jal Nigam, a subsidiary of Nagar Nigam. Power supply is by the Uttar Pradesh Power Corporation Limited. The city produces about 350 million litres per day[18] of sewer and 425 tonnes per day of solid waste.[19] The solid wastes are disposed in one landfill site.[20] A huge amount of sewer flows into the river Ganga daily. Nagar Nigam also runs a bus service in the city and suburban areas. The city is within the Varanasi range of Varanasi zone of Uttar Pradesh Police. A Special Superintendent of Police is the highest ranking police officer in the city.[21] The city constitutes one parliamentary constituency. Indian National Congress won the constituency in Indian general election, 2004.

Varanasi was one the five cities where Ganga Action Plan was launched.

Education

University education

Varanasi is the site of three public universities. Banaras Hindu University, which includes Institute of Technology and Institute of Medical Sciences, is among the top 3 largest residential universities in the world having more than 128 independent teaching departments.[22] Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapeeth University and Sampurnanand Sanskrit University are the other two universities.

Banaras Hindu University (1916) was founded by Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya with the cooperation of Dr Annie Besant. Its 1350 acre (5.5 km²) campus was built on land donated by the then Maharaja of Kashi.

Governor General Lord Cornwallis establish the Sanskrit College (1791), which was the first college in Varanasi. The first principal of Sanskrit College was Sanskrit Professor J. Myor, ICS followed by Dr. J.R. Ballentien, RTH Griffith, Dr. G. Thevo, Dr. Aurthor Venice, Dr. Ganganath Jha, and Gopinath Kaviraj among others. After independence this college turned to in Sampurnanand Sanskrit University.[23]

Central Institute for Higher Tibetan Studies at Sarnath is a deemed university with a preference for the traditional Tibetan method of teaching within a framework of modern universities.[24] Uday Pratap College, another rdeemed university, is the center of sports and science study for the suburban students of modern Benares. Varanasi is also noted for many private and public institutes that provide Hindu religious teaching. Since ancient times people have been coming to Varanasi to learn philosophy, Sanskrit, astrology, social science and religious teachings. In Indian tradition, Varanasi is often called "Sarva Vidya Ki Rajdhani" (capital of knowledge).[25] The city also has the Jamiah Salafiah, a Salafi Islamic institution.[26]

Basic and special education

Varanasi's schools are either run by the state government or by private (many of which are religious) organizations. Schools mainly use English or Hindi as the medium of instruction. The schools are affiliated with the Indian Certificate of Secondary Education (ICSE), the Central Board for Secondary Education (CBSE), or the U.P. Board of High School & Intermediate Education. Under the 10+2+3 plan, after completing their secondary education, students typically enroll in a 2 year junior college (also known as a pre-university) or in schools with a higher secondary facility. Students usually choose from one of three streams — liberal arts, commerce, or science, though vocational streams are also available. Upon completing the required coursework, students may enroll in general or professional degree programs.

Tourism

Probably due to its unique culture, Varanasi is a major tourist destination for foreign tourists in India. A number of 3, 4 and 5 star hotels are present in the city. All sort of cuisines are available mostly as street food due to rich and hospitable culture of Varanasi.

Varanasi is a noted centre for silk weaving and brassware. Fine silks and brocaded fabrics, exquisite saris, brassware, jewellery, woodcraft, carpets, wall hangings, lamp shades and masks of Hindu and Buddhist deities are some of Varanasi's shopping attractions. The main shopping areas include the Chowk, Godaulia, Vishwanath Lane, Lahurabir and Thatheri Bazaar. [9]

Varanasi in popular culture

* A major section of Hindu's believe that Varanasi(KASHI) is the 'Center of Universe', hence they call it as Universal Capital Banaras.
* In Kurt Weill's "Benares Song" from the opera Rise and Fall of the City of Mahagonny.
* In Dan Simmons' Hyperion Cantos the barge, transporting the pilgrims to the Sea of Grass, was called Benares.
* Ian McDonald's novel River of Gods is partly set in Varanasi.
* In a song by Krishna Das entitled "Kashi Vishwanath Gange" on the CD Breath of the heart.[27]
* In a song by Waterjuice entitled "Varanasi Space Station" on the CD World Fusion.
* Bibhutibhushan Bandopadhyay's seminal novel 'Aparajito' was partly set in Benaras. It was further immortalized by Satyajit Ray in his 'Apu Trilogy'. A part of the film was shot in Varanasi (Benaras)

Notes

1. ^ Ranking of Districts by Population Size in 1991 and 2001. Government of Uttar Pradesh. Retrieved on 2007-02-04.
2. ^ Ranking of Districts by Population Density. Government of Uttar Pradesh. Retrieved on 2007-02-04.
3. ^ Lannoy, Richard (October 1999). Benares Seen from Within. University of Washington Press, Back Flap. ISBN 029597835X. OCLC 42919796.
4. ^ Talageri, Shrikant G.. The Geography of the Rigveda. Retrieved on 2007-02-04.
5. ^ Varanasi : The eternal city. Banaras Hindu University. Retrieved on 2007-02-04.
6. ^ a b Singh, Rana P.B.. Varanasi as Heritage City (India) on the scale the UNESCO World Heritage List: From Contestation to Conservation (PDF). EASAS papers. Swedish South Asian Studies Network. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
7. ^ a b Varanasi. India-cities. Atrip4india.com. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
8. ^ Varanasi tourism. DelhiTourism.com. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
9. ^ Cite error 8; No text given.
10. ^ Shri Kashi Vishwanath Mandir Varanasi. National Informatics Centre, Government of India. Retrieved on 2007-02-04.
11. ^ "Countrywide alert on Masjid demolition anniversary", The Tribune, 1998-12-06. Retrieved on 2007-02-05.
12. ^ Birla Temple (new Vishwanath Temple). Retrieved on 2007-02-04.
13. ^ Varanasi. Tourism of India 2. HinduNet Inc. (2003). Retrieved on 2007-03-07. “all along the shore lay great fleets of vessels laden with rich merchandise. From the looms of Benaras went forth the most delicate silks, that adorned the halls of St. James and of Versailles, and in the bazaars, the muslins of Bengal and sabres of Oude were mingled with the jewels of Golconda and the shawls of Cashmere”
14. ^ Urban Agglomerations/Cities having population of more than one million in 2001. Census of India 2001 (Provisional). Office of the Registrar General, India (2001-07-25). Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
15. ^ a b c Population, Population in the age group 0–6 and literates by sex - Urban Agglomeration/Town: 2001 (PDF). Census of India 2001 (Provisional) 53-54. Office of the Registrar General, India. Retrieved on 2006-08-17.
16. ^ Slum Population in Million Plus Cities (Municipal Corporations): Part A. Census of India 2001 (Provisional). Office of the Registrar General, India (2002-01-22). Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
17. ^ National Crime Records Bureau (2004). "Crimes in Mega Cities", Crime in India-2004 (PDF Format), Ministry of Home Affairs, 158.
18. ^ Bhargava, Gopal. "Scheme for Varanasi", The Tribune.
19. ^ Waste Generation and Composition. Management of municipal solid wastes. Planning Division, Central Pollution Control Board. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
20. ^ Status of landfill sites in 59 cities. Management of municipal solid wastes. Planning Division, Central Pollution Control Board. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
21. ^ UP Police Is divided into following zines consisting ranges & districts. UP Police. NIC. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
22. ^ Banaras Hindu University. SurfIndia. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
23. ^ Acharya Baldeva Upadhyay, Kashi ki Panditya Parampara, Vishwavidyalaya Prakashan, Varanasi, 1983.
24. ^ Central Institute for Higher Tibetan Studies. Varanasi City. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
25. ^ Educational Institutes in Varanasi. Varanasi City. Retrieved on 2006-08-18.
26. ^ Darul Uloom Jamia Rasheedia. Tipu Sultan Advanced Study & Research Centre (TSASRC). Retrieved on 2007-03-07.
27. ^ Text and Information. Retrieved on 2007-06-24.

References

* Singh, Rana P.B. Varanasi as Heritage City (India) on the scale the UNESCO World Heritage List: From Contestation to Conservation. Swedish South Asian Studies Network.